Taking a Step Back

This September was an eventful month for me. It was full of travels, doctor visits, and yes, surfing. I really enjoyed being able to see all of my friends up and down the East Coast at the ESA East Coast Championships (Easterns).

Yes school is in session, but that doesn’t mean that surfing has to stop as long as my grades are up to standards. The highlight of my month was the Easterns held at Jennette’s Pier in Nags Head, North Carolina. When I was first looking at the forecast, it was going to be flat. All that changed in a day; there were overhead bombing waves at the pier.

The first day I was there, my mom and I went to Frisco Pier to surf and get back in the groove of things. Frisco was probably my favorite surf session out of the entire trip. The next couple of days I surfed at Jennette’s Pier because that is where I would be surfing for the contest. On Wednesday, my friend and I were helping tear down for the day (in 35 mph winds) and the speaker fell on my head. Long story short, I got five staples in my head and a concussion. Not knowing I had a concussion, I surfed that next day competed that Friday. I ended up getting put out of quarters, but I still learned a lot from the heats I surfed that day. Unfortunately, the Jr. Women’s Longboard and Menehune Longboard was cancelled so I did not compete in those divisions.

Because I have been on the ESA Allstar team for three years, I was able to graduate from the team this year. I am returning to the team as a Jr. Mentor and will be able to stay involved with the ESA! It was great to see all of my friends on the team in addition to the new members joining.

Because of my concussion, I have not been able to surf, compete, workout, or even do yoga per doctor’s orders. It has really forced me to take a step back realize that I sometimes take my opportunities to surf for granted. I am now more ready than ever to get back out there and surf/compete.

Until the next time I can get in the water… save me a wave!